1990 CHÂTEAU GRUAUD LAROSE 1990

What a gorgeous nose, with abundant sweet fruit and muscular concentration, but nowhere near as unyielding as the 1986, with softening hints of earth and truffle, a light smokiness wreathed through the fruit. Delicious palate, this has energy and a real edge of acidity and tight-grained tannin. The Finish is really, really long, with spices and plenty of cedary finesse, but a depth of structure supporting plenty of fruit. Harmonious and very complete, a fabulous Gruaud.

Fully open and delicious with cedar box, dried blackcurrants and savory herbs on the palate. Sexy, aromatic and delicious now.

 Fully mature, this is ready to go. The wine is medium bodied, most of the tannins have melted away. Better on the cedar, tobacco, cherry and leafy nose, than on the soft, smooth, mature palate. The wine is fine, but it lacks the weight, density and complexity found in previous vintages like 1986 and 1982.

Tasted in that well-known Bordeaux appellation called "Burgundy," the 1990 Château Gruaud Larose is a Saint Julien that has always flirted with funkiness. Here that came through quite strongly on this occasion, partly because it was juxtaposed against the purity of the 1990 Domaine de Chevalier Rouge. That does not detract from a thoroughly enjoyable wine. The nose shows just a touch of brettanomyces here, soft black fruit with melted tar, graphite, leather and game. The palate has a gaminess from start to finish, carrying the warmth of that summer into the glass, melted tannins with just a touch of dryness towards the finish. It is a pleasurable, if not intellectual Saint Julien to drink over the next 15 years. Tasted June 2015.