1996 CHÂTEAU COS D’ESTOURNEL 1996

 Tasted at the château, the 1996 Cos d'Estournel was aged in 65% new oak (unlike the 1995 which was 100%) and is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot. It has a straight down the line, intense and focused, graphite and melted tar bouquet. It is almost Pauillac in style, no surprise given its proximity. The palate is medium-bodied with fresh acidity, finer tannin than the 1986 Cos d'Estournel tasted alongside, but sharing those same leitmotifs of black pepper and sea salt. I like the nonchalance of this Cos d'Estournel. At 20 years it is not an ostentatious wine, not determined to go out and impress, but its nuance, stylishness and classicism grow on you. Its virtues seem to register only after you swallow the wine and find yourself tempted back for more. Excellent. Tasted July 2016.

Still so youthful and closed that it took about an hour for the wine to open up. Filled with cedar, spices and dark leather notes, this is classic Cos: structured, firm and tightly wound. Should keep well for another decade or two.

The aromatics capture the wines mature essence with its earthy wet forest floor, tobacco leaf, cigar box and bright red fruits. There is lift in the fruit, coupled with a leafy, red berry assortment in the finish. This is probably close to fully mature, where it should remain for at least 15 or more years before entering its slow decline.

A beautiful bottle of this that shows so finely mature with a very classic St. Estephe flavor that sort of reminds me of tar and charcoal. Medium-bodied but quite layered and yet light on its feet with very dark red fruit and a wonderful, spice-driven finish. So delicious now but certainly good bottles will continue to develop over the next decade or so.

The robe is still almost violet. This wine should be decanted well before drinking. Still closed, austere, he gently opens but we must learn to wait. Rich and dense, massive, concentrated, with tannins still present but is gently refined. A blockbuster to keep or open at least one day before drinking.

Big, toasty, coffee-bean French oak nose. Quite earthy and animal beneath, with hints of blood and cedary complexity. Must be a classy claret. Earthy, deep and bittersweet on the palate with plummy depth and length. Very good Bordeaux.

At first there was a slightly green note on the nose but then on the palate the fruit was rich, dense and rather glorious. As it opened up in the glass I got the slightest suggestion of brett on the nose, followed by a hint of ashes. It's pretty good stuff but not nearly as thrilling as the 1989 served alongside it.