1985 CHÂTEAU MARGAUX 1985

(11-2000)

(01-2002)

(01-2018) In Bordeaux, 1985 is my favourite vintage bar none. Yes, '61 may be more legendary, '49 more revered, but I have bought and drunk a lot of '85s over the past 30 years with unfailing success in the wines being both sumptuous and structured, in an immensely pleasurable vintage. This Margaux may be the pinnacle, a heavenly depth of graphite and cedar-touched ripe, but not overripe, black fruits, the lightest nuances of game and vanilla, and just a gorgeous, ethereal Margaux perfume. In the mouth the tannins are now resolved of course, but the fine-grained, supple nature is lovely and the fresh acidity gives this an alert, still energetic character at 33 years of age. Wonderful fruit, again just touched with cedar and game on the palate, but a depth of blackcurrant and edged by black plum and chocolate bittersweet notes. Long, not fading in the glass after an hour, and possibly with substantial time ahead for well-cellared bottles.

(12-2009) Tasted at the Claret Club -85 Dinner at -The Square-. Chateau Margaux remains one of the most compelling, indeed most delicious First Growths. Deeper in colour than its peers, there bouquet is vibrant and vivacious with succulent red fruits, date, a touch of iodine and violets and as before, further aeration reveals those classic pencil lead aromas. The palate is exquisitely balanced, focused and powerful and yet brilliant defined with a sublime talcum finish, a hint of exotic fruit on the finish. Divine.

(06-2015) Still at its peak, this 30-year-old wine is elegant and layered with sweet floral and cedar notes. Fine acidity with good depth and intensity and a fairly long length. Classic, mature Margaux.