1990 CHÂTEAU LAFON ROCHET 1990

Deep garnet core with thin dark brick rim. The nose takes some time to develop (even after decanting.) But it is worth the wait: a very complex nose of ground coffee beans, black truffle, wet wood and cigar box. Very Saint Estephe. The palate has moderate concentration, well-knit tannins and good acidity for a 1990. A fresh attack on the palate. A slight rustic, muscular edge gives this wine real character. Quite earthy on the finish, a little sharp and abrupt perhaps. However this is still an almighty Lafon-Rochet - certainly one of the best I have tasted. Drink now and over the next 5 years.

Another powerful and inviting black fruit nose with plenty of concentrated, leafy blackcurrant and cedar. Unmistakably claret. This has real structure with a backbone of tannins and acidity beneath fine, sweet, ripe black fruit. This needs time, but seems to have the balance and concentration necessary to evolve into a superb wine. A favourite with one or two of the group - and one guess at Latour.

A bit rustic but very concentrated. Dark ruby color, with ripe berry and dried currant aromas. Full-bodied and chewy, with lots of fruit and a medium finish. Needs a bit of time.

A delicious Lafon Rochet that is just starting to open up. Lovely sweet cedar and cassis notes with a long finish.

Fully mature, with a complex, secondary nose of tobacco, stone, cigar box, black cherry, earth and spice. Medium bodied, with some rusticity in the tannins, this is at peak, or slightly past showing its best.

Lighter than the Pavie and less sweet. Transparent and less dramatic than the Pavie, but a satisfying wine.