90-94 / 100
Noncontractual photograph
DOMAINE DE LA ROMANEE CONTI Marey Monge 1998
Romanée Saint Vivant
Cornas
DOMAINE PEYRE ROSE Clos Syrah Leone 1998
Coteaux du Languedoc
Pomerol
Pomerol
Pauillac
Saint Julien
CHÂTEAU LEOVILLE BARTON Magnum 1998
Saint Julien
Saint Julien
CHÂTEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD 1998
Pauillac
The 1998 Dom Ruinart Brut Vintage is simply gorgeous. This taut, focused Champagne is currently quite shut down and appears to be holding back much of its potential. Still, the wine possesses plenty of density in its ripe Chardonnay fruit, smoke and minerals, with a long, subtle finish. All this wine needs is time in bottle. If past vintages are any indication, the 1998 should age beautifully. Readers who enjoy fresh wines will find plenty to admire in this wine now, but those who enjoy Champagnes with a little age on them will want to wait a few years before enjoying this fine effort.
Starts out rich, showing peach and apricot aromas and flavors, with an undercurrent of grapefruit and mineral. The finish is tighter, with a dry, chalky feel.