1990 CHÂTEAU LA CONSEILLANTE 1990

(02-1997) In this recent blind tasting, the 1990 triumphed over what seemed to be the slightly subdued, more tightly knit, atypically backward 1989. The 1990 was exhibiting all of its charms, with its deep ruby color, and flamboyant display of toasty new oak, black-cherries, raspberries, kirsch, licorice, and Asian spices. Velvety-textured, supple, sexy, and easy to drink, the low acid 1990 La Conseillante is about as seductive a wine as readers will ever encounter. It admirably demonstrates why Pomerols are often called the Burgundies of Bordeaux. As flamboyant as the 1990 is, it remains youthful, in spite of its low acid, precocious showing. While it can be drunk now, it will continue to develop for another 12-20 years. The 1989 and 1990 wines represent La Conseillante's quintessential smooth as silk style, which often leads consumers to believe the wines will not last. I remember feeling the same way about the 1982 (which never tasted as stunning as either the 1989 or 1990). That wine continues to get better and better. One of the unexplainable facts of Bordeaux wine drinking is that even the softer, delicious, up-front wines can age impeccably when well-stored. Owners of the 1989 and 1990 La Conseillantes should not hesitate to enjoy them now, as well as over the next 20 years.