1983 CHÂTEAU HAUT BRION 1983

(07-2010) I have always had a soft spot for the Haut-Brion 1983 as one of the “friendliest” of the First Growths. Though not a top-tier Haut-Brion, the 1983 has developed a fine earthy, leathery bouquet that is similar to the ’86 but without the same vigour or complexity. The palate is very harmonious with a citrus-tinged entry, its lack of depth and length compensated by poise and tension. Sandalwood, cedar and a touch of truffle and smoke towards the finish. Lovely. A point. 

(11-2017) Medium intensity and very evolved color. Intense nose, where the fruitiness has disappeared to give way to truffle and smoke. Smooth on the entry, suave on the development, particularly aromatic, truffled, the wine develops on a smoky note and finishes long, tasty, with a tannic presence a bit grainy for the first time in this tasting.

(05-2013) Slightly past fully mature, this elegant, medium bodied, finesse styled wine delivers sweet cherries, smoke, tar, tobacco and forest floor scents. Soft and refined, this lighter vintage requires drinking, as there is not enough stuffing to allow for further development. It was nice seeing this wine after so many years as it was the first vintage of Haut Brion I ever tasted.

(01-2010)

(01-2000) A quintet of notes : first at the chateau in september 1984. Good wine, texture and length. Curiously, its youthful nose reminded me of thoroughbred stables. I described it as sweet, rather caramel-like and 'brown sugar' respectively. The usual earthy-tobacco flavour, fairly tannic. At 17 years of age the'83 had an open, mature, orange-brown rim; a fully developed, slightly smelly and stalky nose, showing its age.

(01-2003) The colour is a rich, browning ruby. The nose displays a lovely hint of horsey, sweaty saddle, old leather and a definite touch of Brettanomyces, which is absolutely not a problem here, but adds to a complex character with some bay leaf notes and deep, sweet, berried fruit. The palate is beautifully balanced with a terrifically polished character of svelte tannins adding grip, and good fruit that still has life about it. Fine length here, and this is drinking better than a bottle I had a couple of years ago. Absolutely a point on this evidence.