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1997
HENRI BONNEAU Marie Beurrier 1997
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Expert's opinions
In 2003, we will finally see several releases, including his 1997 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Marie Beurrier. Although this is an outstanding effort from a difficult vintage, Bonneau is used to producing wines that are far better out of bottle than from barrel. This 1997 has gotten better with each year of aging, and from bottle, it is an outstanding example of Chateauneuf du Pape. A heady concoction of kirsch liqueur, licorice, pepper, and ripe black cherry fruit is offered in a rich, full-bodied, surprisingly intense style. The acid is low, the fruit ripe, and the wine plump and juicy. Typical of many Bonneau efforts, it offers notes of smoke, beef blood, earth, figs, and prunes. It will drink well for 12-15 years. Always one of the most remarkable visits, my annual pilgrimage to the top of the village of Chateauneuf du Pape for the descent into the ancient cellars of Henri Bonneau is always a challenge. First of all, the wines are spectacular, but getting Bonneau to deliver a serious response to a question is never easy. Nevertheless, he has a wicked sense of humor, and with his Provencal twang, he is not the easiest to understand, particularly when his jibes are aimed at the French bureaucracy. Bonneau was in rare form when I saw him. He was thrilled with his 2001s, 2000s, 1999s, and 1998s (as was just about everybody else in Chateauneuf du Pape). He was philosophical about the rain storms that flooded the region on September 8 and 9, 2002, saying that fate had already been kind to Chateauneuf du Pape with four great vintages in a row.As I have said before, the wines that emerge from Henri Bonneau's 15+ acres of old vine Grenache planted on the famed sector called La Crau are majestic wines of extraordinary power, richness, and longevity. At the end of our tasting, Bonneau pulled out one of his legendary old vintages, the 1955 Reserve des Celestins, and once again, I simply wrote
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Data sheet
Vintage
Wine
1997
Region
Rhône
Appellation
Châteauneuf du Pape
Colour
Red
Volume
0.75 l
Country
France
Alcohol content
13.00% vol
Château informations
Henri Bonneau (born in 1938) is the 12th generation of winemakers. He made his first vintage in 1956. His estate covers only 6 hectares, mainly Grenache which normally accounts for more than 90% of the blend with small quantities of Mourvèdre, Counoise and Vaccarèse added. Henri Bonneau decides for each vintage which cuvées he will make. Sometimes one or maybe up to four.
A brilliant winemaker and mischievous man, he continues to produce wines with a unique personality, outside of any fashion, trend or influence. Whether it's aging or bottling, nothing here responds to any financial logic or the standards of modern oenology. Unfortunately, the different cuvées, produced in very limited quantities, are particularly difficult to find.
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